Speechless. This is probably the best word to describe surfing. But before being speechless there will be countless rude adjectives that will fill the serene ocean environment. You will also countless times think you are the only disabled surfer person while every one else are like acrobats on surf boards.
I have always wanted to surf, and because my wife insisted that she wants to surf I reluctantly began a journey that I can see will lead to a different outlook on life. Surfing is not a sport for the vast majority of people who participate. For most of us it is more, dare I say a religion! I have been closer to God / in touch with the universe more often on a board in the water than any other place.
I have many theories on why surfing is as addictive as it is. The first and most obvious and least new age idea is that your mind is clear when you surf. You are absolutely focussed on your surroundings. When paddling out your focus is getting to the back line as quickly and painlessly as possible. When you are in the line up, you always have a friendly chat with others, mostly pleasantries. Your main focus is the open ocean and what it is inevitably going to deliver. Once you spot your possible wave, you make your intentions clear to yourself, the ocean and those around you that you are amped and ready. Now you scramble to get into position as quickly as possible. When you hit your stride and you are in position, you are committed for that wave. When the wave bites into the board you are already looking down the line to see where glory lies.
Wether you have a “cooker” of a wave, a short close out or even if you don’t make the take of, you think of nothing else except your surroundings. The world and all its problems do not form part of surfing in that moment. Your mind is only interested in what happens right there and right now. How many times have I thought I have only been in the water for 40 minutes, only to realise when I get to my car that it is closer to 90 or even 120 minutes. My mind does not keep track of time when I am surfing because it’s solely focussed on something else.
The second and probably the more airy fairy reason for my surfing addiction is the oneness / energy you feel when you are in the water. A few days of not being in the water could literally drive me insane. I have an absolute obsession to feel the coolness of water all around me. To dip my head in the water and feel baptised when surfacing…my fix!
Surfing for me is reality, and it is nice to escape to something real every once in a while!